When it comes to your home plumbing, prevention can save you from costly repairs, big water bills and can safeguard your family’s health. Here are some tips that can save you from significant damage and health hazards to your home.

• Check for plumbing leaks. Be aware of how much your water bill typically costs, and consider investigating even a modest increase if you have not increased your intentional use. When turning your water off, make sure that your sink and shower handles do not leak. While the water runs, check your toilets, dishwasher, refrigerator, and under your sinks for leaking pipes. Visible signs of plumbing leaks include mold and mildew around your tub, or moldy walls, baseboards, ceilings or floors in your bathroom or kitchen. musty–smelling rooms, stained or damaged ceilings, walls and floors, wet spots inside your home, or outside on the lawn. Other signs of plumbing leaks are skyrocketing water bills and a constantly running water meter. If you see any water stains or other visible signs, investigate and address the problem right away!

  
  

• Be careful what you pour down the drain. Only put food scraps down your drain if you have and use a garbage disposal unit. Never pour grease down your drain, and never flush down toilet wipes (even if they claim to be flushable), diapers, or feminine products. A good rule of thumb for your toilet is to flush down only human waste and a minimum of toilet paper. Even hair in the toilet or your sinks can form solid masses and clog the drain. 

  
  

• Keep your drains clear. A simple and cheap way to do that is to install strainers in all your sinks and showers to keep hair and other debris from going down the drains and clean them regularly. Strainers do half the job of preventing clogs!

• Keep your faucets and showerheads clean. The same solution of vinegar and baking soda can be used to clean faucets and showerheads. By keeping your faucets and showerheads clean, you prevent the building up of sediment, which does not allow water to flow properly. 

• Check the water pressure. Most pipes and faucets can only withstand up to a specific level of water pressure − usually 40–60 pounds per square inch (psi). If the water pressure coming into your home through the main water line is regularly high (above 80 psi), consider installing a pressure regulator. High water pressure is a cause of water leaks and pipe breaks, especially if your plumbing is older. 

• Keep records of maintenance work and professional inspections performed on your plumbing. A good idea is to create a maintenance schedule. A good general guideline is once every two years for a newer system and once a year if you live in an older home.

  
  

• Protect pipes from freezing. When temperatures drop, water running in your pipes can freeze, causing them to burst and result in widespread damage. To winterize your home’s plumbing, insulate pipes in unheated spaces (particularly in attics, basements and garages) and crawl spaces. Seal cracks and openings, making sure you close any air leaks into cabinets. During freezing weather, open your cabinet doors to expose them to the heated air in your rooms and shut off the water supply to hoses, faucets, and sprinkler systems. Consider installing frost–free spigots for your outside faucets. Draining and insulating water pipes is the best way to prevent damage from freezing temperatures.

To take care of your well and your family’s health, test the water in your well (or have someone test it) at least once a year. If you suspect that your well water is contaminated, or just want to be safe, you can test your well water more often (To learn more, reference these Guidelines for Testing Well Water.) 

It is also important to sanitize your well water at least once a year, when you use a well for the first time (e.g. newly constructed well, or existing well returning to service), or any time a component of the well water distribution system is opened for repair. You should also disinfect your well water when lab results indicate the presence of bacteria, or wherever bacterial contamination is suspected, as might be indicated by continuing illness of those drinking the water, or whenever the well is surrounded by flood waters (standing water around or covering the well casing), or when the well water becomes muddy or cloudy after a rain event.

The standard treatment method for sanitizing well water, as well as the entire well system (well, pump, water lines, water heater, faucets, etc.), is shock chlorination. This disinfection method uses chlorine (bleach) to kill bacteria that could harm your family’s health. It is important to be sure you are using the correct amount of household bleach and to follow guidelines exactly, as chlorine is also a poison when misused. See the University of Kentucky’s guidelines here: Disinfecting Your Well Water.

A final, yet crucial step for taking care of your well, is record keeping. Keep a journal of detailed accounts about your well's construction, records of testing, inspections, and maintenance visits. Inspect your well often visually, and have it inspected by a qualified well driller or pump installer every 10 to 15 years. Regular well inspections can help you ensure that your water supply is safe for you and your loved ones.

A good resource for well owners is the Wellcare® hotline, This is a non–profit organization that provides free assistance with information on owning, using, and caring for a well. 

Additional resources: 

• Water Well Information for Homeowners, Kentucky Energy and Environment Cabinet

• The Private Well Class – free classes and webinars for individual well owners

•  Rural Community Assistance Partnership (RCAP) Private Well Program

Sources

CDC, Guidelines for Testing Well Water.

____, Drinking Water Treatment Technologies for Household Use.

Beck E.G. and Henken K., Disinfecting Your Well Water, University of Kentucky.

Cooperative Extension Service, University of Kentucky, Testing Private Water Sources 

When drinking water from a spring, it is important to know whether it is safe to drink. That is why it is a good idea to test the spring water regularly, ideally, every six (6) months, but at a minimum, at least once a year. Also, test spring water when you observe changes in taste, odor (smell), or staining and cloudiness (also known as increased turbidity), when you see signs of heavy erosion in the surrounding area, or when you suspect contamination from surface activities, such as leaking fuel tanks, pastures, or intensive agriculture. (See Who can test your water? and How to take a water sample for testing it?). 

Keep in mind that even though springs can provide cold, fresh water, it is more likely to be contaminated compared to deep well water, because the porous rock that allows springs to exist is at risk of pollution. When rainwater falls or seeps through soil it becomes slightly acidic because of its interaction with carbon dioxide (CO₂). It then reacts with the calcium carbonate  (CaCO₃) in limestone to create more soluble calcium bicarbonate, which then is carried away by the water, leaving gaps and widening cracks. These can then cause the spring to change its shape and location and even “sink” it, so that the water no longer comes to the surface. It is important to cap a spring at the point where it emerges from the ground to ensure you are collecting only subsurface groundwater, not mixed with surface water, which is even more likely to be contaminated. 

Capping a spring often involves creating a structure around the water emergence point. They are usually simple and inexpensive and require little attention after installing them. Yet, as with any other structure, even the simplest spring structures need to be checked regularly to ensure enough good–quality water is making it through the system. For example, spring boxes and seep collection systems should be examined regularly to ensure that there is no silt build–up and no animals can be trapped in the system. If water is carried from the spring box to a house, the intake opening should be above the level of the silt collection. Once a year, clean the sediment out of the spring box and disinfect the whole system. If a pump is built into the spring box, consider installing a drain pipe to carry sediment away. 

The maintenance of seep collections systems are similar to spring boxes, except that extra care must be taken for collection pipes. Although these are lined with gravel to filter out sediment, they can still clog. A sign of a clogged collection system can be a decrease of water flow. That is why if you are regularly drinking water from a spring, it is wise to know the spring’s rate of flow and seasonal variations. To clean clogged pipes, open the cap from the clean–out pipe and pour water into it, using a hose or a bucket, so that you break up the sediment using sufficient force. 

Sources

Penn State Extension, Spring Development and Protection. 

SSWM, “Maintaining Structures for Springs.” In Water for the World, Technical Note No. R.W.S. 101. 

Stone, P. (2023), “What To Do With A Natural Spring On Your Property.” In Mother Earth News, May 8 (Originally published as “The Rural Art of Capping A Spring” in the May/June 1985 issue of MOTHER EARTH NEWS). 

Cooperative Extension Service, University of Kentucky, Testing Private Water Sources 

There are many reasons you may want to consider extra filtration for your drinking water. Whether you use well water, natural spring, collected rainwater, or treated tap water, different types of treatment can be beneficial for each. There are many effective ways to filter your water, and choosing the right one depends on a few different factors, like what your source is and the intended use for the filtered water. Though no one filter type can address every possible issue, the right filter for you can make your water safer to drink by some standards. 

One reason some individuals consider extra filtration is due to health concerns like a weakened or compromised immune system. If you or someone in your household has such a health concern, it is a good idea to consult with a medical professional about what filtration methods might be best to protect you. 

A household filtration system can be installed at the point-of-use (POU) and/or the point-of-entry (POE) of drinking water to a residence. Point-of-use systems are typically installed under a kitchen sink or directly attached to a tap or faucet. Common types of household water treatment systems: 

• Filtration systems: devices that remove impurities from water through a physical barrier, a chemical and/or a biological process. Filtration systems are defined by the pore size of the filters. From largest to smallest: microfiltration, ultrafiltration and nanofiltration.

  • Microfiltration, with the largest pores (around 0.1 micron), removes bacteria, suspended solids, and turbidity. 

  • Ultrafiltration has smaller pores (around 0.01 micron), removing viruses, larger molecules, and organic matter, while 

  • Nanofiltration, with the smallest pores (around 0.001 micron), targets most viruses, organic molecules, and divalent ions. 

• Water softeners: devices that reduce the hardness of water. Typically, a water softener uses sodium or potassium ions to replace calcium and magnesium ions, which create “hardness” in water. 

• Reverse osmosis systems: systems that reverse the flow of water in a natural process of osmosis, so that water passes from a more concentrated solution to a more dilute solution through a semipermeable membrane. This membrane works like a tea bag; that is, a thin barrier that separates the water with few solutes dissolved in it, from the water with a higher concentration of solutes dissolved in it. Pre- and post–filters are often incorporated along with the reverse osmosis membrane itself.

• Distillation systems: systems that distill impure water by boiling water and collecting the steam in a separate container, leaving many of the solid contaminants behind. Cooling the steam in a clean container then results in purified water. 

• Disinfection systems: a physical or chemical process in which pathogens (disease–causing elements) are deactivated or killed. Examples of chemical disinfectants are chlorine, chlorine dioxide, and ozone. Examples of physical disinfectants are ultraviolet light, electronic radiation, and heat. 

Filtration methods can also include common fridge filters, faucet type filters, under the sink filters, and household pitchers, which are made by many popular brands and can be found in most stores. However, most home water filters—like pitcher or fridge filters—are not designed to remove germs from your water. These filters instead use a carbon filter and help make water taste better by reducing chlorine taste or smell, or removing heavy metals like lead.

It is good to note that extra filtration methods may remove both good and bad substances from your water. For example, some filters remove beneficial chemicals like chlorine, which kills germs in water, or fluoride, which prevents cavities. If your tap water is already free from harmful germs and chemicals, you may not want to filter it.

Sources

Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), About Choosing Home Water Filters

Environmental Working Group (EWG), Water Filter Guide

To find a state certified laboratory in your area, see the Directory of State Certified Laboratories for Martin County in this toolkit or visit EPA’s webpage on Drinking Water and Wastewater Laboratory Network. Martin County Health Department does not provide any water testing services. 

Many testing services supply their own sample containers and instructions for safe and accurate testing. Testing services may sometimes send a trained technician to collect the sample. The cost of water testing depends on the type of test and the lab you use. Using a certified lab testing typically costs $20 to $150. Some labs charge a nominal fee for testing water samples, while others may charge $50–$500 or more, depending on the lab and the number and type of compounds tested. The cost of comprehensive water tests can range from $75–$250.

1. Get a proper water sample bottle: Contact a certified laboratory for water testing to pick up the water kit they provide, as water collected directly into these bottles are usually the only water samples accepted. 

2. Take your sample at the correct time: Your water sample should not be left sitting for a long period of time as this can lead to inaccurate results. Check with the laboratory where you are taking your samples to find out about the days and hours they are accepting samples.

   • Sample your well or spring water when you're sure you can drop it off to a certified laboratory within 24 hours of collecting the sample. 

   • When testing for e. Coli, the sample must be taken to the lab within 4 hours of collection.

3. Take your sample in the correct way: Talk to the laboratory that will serve you. Ask them any questions and make sure you understand how to take the sample and be clear about how not to do it. Here is some good general advice: 

   • In order to take an accurate sample, DO NOT CLEAN your faucet or sink with any chemicals within 24 hours of taking the sample.

   • Take a sample from an inside tap with no aerator, such as the bathtub. Do not take a sample from an outside tap or garden hose. 

   • Remove any aerator, screen or other attachments from your faucet. 

   • Let cold water run for 3 to 4 minutes before taking the sample to remove standing water from your plumbing system. Hold a thermometer in the water coming from the faucet and when the temperature stays at a consistent temperature the water will be coming from the system.

• Handle the bottle carefully: Remove the sample bottle lid and do not touch the inside of the lid or put the lid down. Do not rinse out the bottle. 

• Fill the bottle to the level that is marked, as described in the enclosed instructions. Make sure that you close the lid firmly.

4. Keep Sample in Cool PlaceKeep the sample cool (but not frozen) until it is returned to the drop–off location. If you can store the (tightly capped) sample in slushy ice water, that is ideal.

   1. Do not store samples in warm places such as your car trunk! 

   2. Do not get gas while your samples are in your car as the gasoline fumes may penetrate the sample container.

      
      

Deliver the Sample within 24 Hours

 Drop off your sample at the drop–off location specified by the laboratory serving you. Samples older than 24 hours may not be processed.

Sources

Consumer Reports, How to Test Your Tap Water, 2025

Costhelper, Inc., Water Testing and Treatment Costs, 2024 

InspectAPedia, Choices of Water Tests, Daniel Friedman, 2025

5. Care for your drainfield: Your drainfield is an important part of your septic system that removes contaminants from the liquids emerging from your septic tank. Here are a few things you should do to maintain it: 

   1. Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, tank, or other septic system components.

   2. Planting: Plant trees away from your drainfield to keep roots from growing into your septic system. Tree roots might clog and damage the drainfield. It is sometimes surprising how far roots can grow away from the tree.

   3. Avoid adding excess water to the drainfield: Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater or surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up. In case of a flooded drainfield, avoid adding any more water to the system by not flushing toilets or allowing liquids down drains.

Sources

US EPA, A Kentucky Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

US EPA, How to care for your septic system. In Care and Maintenance, Septic Systems.

Septic system maintenance is not complicated, and it does not need to be expensive. According to the EPA, upkeep boils down to four (4) key elements:

1. Inspect and pump frequently: To prevent buildup, sludge and floating scum need to be removed through periodic pumping of the septic tank. Regular inspections and pumping are the best and cheapest way to keep your septic system in good working order. The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three (3) years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three (3) to five (5) years. In the service report, the pumper should note any repairs completed and whether the tank is in good condition. If the pumper recommends additional repairs he or she cannot perform, hire someone to make the repairs as soon as possible.

See also, How do you know when it is time to pump your septic system? 

3. Use Water Efficiently: The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system. Efficient water use can improve the operation of the septic system and reduce the risk of failure, benefiting your household as well as all your community. According to the EPA, toilet use accounts for 25 to 30 percent of household water use! That is why it is important to always check to make sure your toilet's reservoir is not leaking into the bowl. (See the section below, How can you measure clean water leakage into your septic system?) And in case you find a leak, fix it as soon as possible. The older the toilet is, the more water it uses to empty the bowl. Most older homes have toilets with 3.5- to 5–gallon reservoirs, while newer high–efficiency toilets use 1.6 gallons of water or less per flush. 

See also, How can you measure clean water leakage into your septic system? 

4. Watch your drains: What goes down the drain can have a major impact on how well your septic system works. That is why you should be cautious with what you are flushing down the toilet. Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom items can clog and potentially damage septic system components if they become trapped. An easy rule of thumb is not to flush anything besides human waste and toilet paper in your toilets. 

Avoid pouring toxins down your drain; these can kill the living organisms that digest and treat household waste in your septic system and can contaminate surface water and groundwater. Use toilet bowl cleaners that are labeled as safe for septic systems.

5. Wash your clothes wisely: Another thing that can have a great impact on your septic system is how you load your washing machine. Small loads of laundry on your washing machine’s large load cycle wastes water and energy. You can avoid that by selecting the proper load size. If you cannot select the load size, run only full loads of laundry. 

Also, doing all household laundry in one day can be harmful to your septic system, as it does not allow your septic tank adequate time to treat wastes, or can flood your drainfield without allowing sufficient recovery time. A good idea is to spread the use of your washing machine throughout the week.

6. Care for your drainfield: Your drainfield is an important part of your septic system that removes contaminants from the liquids emerging from your septic tank. Here are a few things you should do to maintain it: 

• Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, tank, or other septic system components.

• Planting: Plant trees away from your drainfield to keep roots from growing into your septic system. Tree roots might clog and damage the drainfield. It is sometimes surprising how far roots can grow away from the tree.

• Avoid adding excess water to the drainfield: Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater or surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up. In case of a flooded drainfield, avoid adding any more water to the system by not flushing toilets or allowing liquids down drains.

Sources

• US EPA, A Kentucky Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

• US EPA, How to care for your septic system. In Care and Maintenance, Septic Systems. 

According to the EPA, average indoor water use in the typical single–family home is almost seventy (70) gallons per person, per day. However, leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day! A method that EPA recommends for checking for leaks of your toilet’s reservoir into the bowl is adding five (5) drops of liquid food coloring to the reservoir before going to bed. If the dye is in the bowl the next morning, the reservoir is leaking and repairs are needed.

Another method to see how much is leaking from a toilet line, dripping from your faucet, or other leak adds to your water usage: 

• Place a cup under the drip for ten (10) minutes. 

• Multiply the amount of water in the cup by 144 (the number of minutes in 24 hours, divided by 10). This number is the total amount of clean water leakage per day that runs into your septic system caused by this drip.

For example, if your cup fills up 2 tablespoons within 10 minutes, then the total amount of clean water traveling to your septic system from that little leak is 2 T x 144 minutes = 288 T. With 256 Tablespoons per gallon, that makes over a gallon lost each day! 

Source

US EPA, “Your Septic System is your responsibility.” In A Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

Four (4) major factors determine how often to pump your septic system:

• Household size: the number of people in your household. 

• Total wastewater generated: the amount of wastewater generated, which depends on the number of people in the household and the amount of water used.

• Volume of solids in wastewater: for example, using a garbage disposal increases the amount of solids

• Septic tank size.

Your septic tank includes a T–shaped outlet which prevents sludge and scum from leaving the tank and traveling into the drainfield area. Your tank should be pumped if 

• the bottom of the scum layer is within six (6) inches of the bottom of the outlet, 

• if the top of the sludge layer is within twelve (12) inches of the outlet, 

• or, if more than 25% of the liquid depth is sludge and scum. 

It is crucial to keep the maintenance records of work performed on your septic system, inspections as well as pumping. See the National Onsite Wastewater Recycling Association's Guide and Record Keeping Folder example. To keep track of when to pump out your tank, write down the sludge and scum levels found by the septic professional at each inspection. 

Sources

• US EPA, “Your Septic System is your responsibility.” In A Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

• US EPA, “How to Care for Your Septic System.” In Care and Maintenance, Septic Systems. 

Unfortunately, there are not many options for assistance in building or maintaining a private septic system. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has a few ideas on their website, under Funding for Septic Systems. These mostly involve loans from the United States Department of Agriculture’s Rural Development agency, such as:

Single Family Housing Direct Home Loans in Kentucky

Single–Family Housing Repair Loans and Grants Program

Rural Decentralized Water Systems Grant Program

The EPA also lists this source, but the website seems currently unavailable:

Kentucky PRIDE Homeowner Septic System Grant Program provides support to low–income homeowners to replace straight pipes, outhouses, or failing septic systems with sanitary wastewater treatment systems.

There are many reasons you may want to consider extra filtration for your drinking water. Whether you use well water, natural spring, collected rainwater, or treated tap water, different types of treatment can be beneficial for each. There are many effective ways to filter your water, and choosing the right one depends on a few different factors, like what your source is and the intended use for the filtered water. Though no one filter type can address every possible issue, the right filter for you can make your water safer to drink by some standards. 

One reason some individuals consider extra filtration is due to health concerns like a weakened or compromised immune system. If you or someone in your household has such a health concern, it is a good idea to consult with a medical professional about what filtration methods might be best to protect you. 

A household filtration system can be installed at the point-of-use (POU) and/or the point-of-entry (POE) of drinking water to a residence. Point-of-use systems are typically installed under a kitchen sink or directly attached to a tap or faucet. Common types of household water treatment systems: 

• Filtration systems: devices that remove impurities from water through a physical barrier, a chemical and/or a biological process. Filtration systems are defined by the pore size of the filters. From largest to smallest: microfiltration, ultrafiltration and nanofiltration.

  • Microfiltration, with the largest pores (around 0.1 micron), removes bacteria, suspended solids, and turbidity. 

  • Ultrafiltration has smaller pores (around 0.01 micron), removing viruses, larger molecules, and organic matter, while 

  • Nanofiltration, with the smallest pores (around 0.001 micron), targets most viruses, organic molecules, and divalent ions. 

• Water softeners: devices that reduce the hardness of water. Typically, a water softener uses sodium or potassium ions to replace calcium and magnesium ions, which create “hardness” in water. 

• Reverse osmosis systems: systems that reverse the flow of water in a natural process of osmosis, so that water passes from a more concentrated solution to a more dilute solution through a semipermeable membrane. This membrane works like a tea bag; that is, a thin barrier that separates the water with few solutes dissolved in it, from the water with a higher concentration of solutes dissolved in it. Pre- and post–filters are often incorporated along with the reverse osmosis membrane itself.

• Distillation systems: systems that distill impure water by boiling water and collecting the steam in a separate container, leaving many of the solid contaminants behind. Cooling the steam in a clean container then results in purified water. 

• Disinfection systems: a physical or chemical process in which pathogens (disease–causing elements) are deactivated or killed. Examples of chemical disinfectants are chlorine, chlorine dioxide, and ozone. Examples of physical disinfectants are ultraviolet light, electronic radiation, and heat. 

Filtration methods can also include common fridge filters, faucet type filters, under the sink filters, and household pitchers, which are made by many popular brands and can be found in most stores. However, most home water filters—like pitcher or fridge filters—are not designed to remove germs from your water. These filters instead use a carbon filter and help make water taste better by reducing chlorine taste or smell, or removing heavy metals like lead.

It is good to note that extra filtration methods may remove both good and bad substances from your water. For example, some filters remove beneficial chemicals like chlorine, which kills germs in water, or fluoride, which prevents cavities. If your tap water is already free from harmful germs and chemicals, you may not want to filter it.

Sources:

Center for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), About Choosing Home Water Filters

Environmental Working Group (EWG), Water Filter Guide

To find a state certified laboratory in your area, see the Directory of State Certified Laboratories for Martin County in this toolkit or visit EPA’s webpage on Drinking Water and Wastewater Laboratory Network. Martin County Health Department does not provide any water testing services. 

Many testing services supply their own sample containers and instructions for safe and accurate testing. Testing services may sometimes send a trained technician to collect the sample. The cost of water testing depends on the type of test and the lab you use. Using a certified lab testing typically costs $20 to $150. Some labs charge a nominal fee for testing water samples, while others may charge $50–$500 or more, depending on the lab and the number and type of compounds tested. The cost of comprehensive water tests can range from $75–$250.

1. Get a proper water sample bottle: Contact a certified laboratory for water testing to pick up the water kit they provide, as water collected directly into these bottles are usually the only water samples accepted. 

2. Take your sample at the correct time: Your water sample should not be left sitting for a long period of time as this can lead to inaccurate results. Check with the laboratory where you are taking your samples to find out about the days and hours they are accepting samples.

   • Sample your well or spring water when you're sure you can drop it off to a certified laboratory within 24 hours of collecting the sample. 

   • When testing for e. Coli, the sample must be taken to the lab within 4 hours of collection.

3. Take your sample in the correct way: Talk to the laboratory that will serve you. Ask them any questions and make sure you understand how to take the sample and be clear about how not to do it. Here is some good general advice: 

   • In order to take an accurate sample, DO NOT CLEAN your faucet or sink with any chemicals within 24 hours of taking the sample.

   • Take a sample from an inside tap with no aerator, such as the bathtub. Do not take a sample from an outside tap or garden hose. 

   • Remove any aerator, screen or other attachments from your faucet. 

   • Let cold water run for 3 to 4 minutes before taking the sample to remove standing water from your plumbing system. Hold a thermometer in the water coming from the faucet and when the temperature stays at a consistent temperature the water will be coming from the system.

• Handle the bottle carefully: Remove the sample bottle lid and do not touch the inside of the lid or put the lid down. Do not rinse out the bottle. 

• Fill the bottle to the level that is marked, as described in the enclosed instructions. Make sure that you close the lid firmly.

4. Keep Sample in Cool PlaceKeep the sample cool (but not frozen) until it is returned to the drop–off location. If you can store the (tightly capped) sample in slushy ice water, that is ideal.

   1. Do not store samples in warm places such as your car trunk! 

   2. Do not get gas while your samples are in your car as the gasoline fumes may penetrate the sample container.

5. Deliver the Sample within 24 Hours Drop off your sample at the drop–off location specified by the laboratory serving you. Samples older than 24 hours may not be processed. 

Sources

Consumer Reports, How to Test Your Tap Water, 2025

Costhelper, Inc., Water Testing and Treatment Costs, 2024 

InspectAPedia, Choices of Water Tests, Daniel Friedman, 2025

The main processes at work in a septic system to break down harmful wastes from wastewater are 1) bacteria in the tank and the drainage field, and 2) the filtering processes of the soil in the drainage field. 

Stage One: The Septic Tank (anaerobic digestion)

1. Wastewater flows into the septic tank: Water from your house's toilets, sinks, tubs, and washing machines goes into the septic tank from the main sewer pipe. 

2. Wastewater separates into layers: 

   1. Sludge: Heavier solids settle to the bottom of the tank, forming a layer of sludge. 

   2. Scum: Lighter materials, like grease and fats, float to the top, creating a layer of scum. 

   3. Effluent: The liquid in the middle, known as effluent, contains fewer solids and is treated by anaerobic bacteria and other microbes in the sealed, oxygen–free tank. The microbes digest the nutrients in the effluent, breaking down the more complex molecules like carbohydrates and proteins into simpler materials. Liquids are added to the effluent, and the gases like carbon dioxide and methane are safely vented from the tank. 

The sludge and scum are reduced by the biological processes, but still accumulate over time. This is why septic tanks need to be pumped every so often.

Effluent moves to the drain field or leach field: The treated liquid then flows from the tank to a drain field, which is a

series of underground trenches. 

Stage Two: The Drain Field (aerobic digestion)

1. Treatment in the soil: Perforated pipes within the trenches allow the effluent to trickle into the surrounding gravel and soil. Microbes form a biomat: A slimy, naturally occurring layer of microbes called a "biomat" forms around the drain field pipes. This layer plays a crucial role in treating the wastewater.

2. Bacteria complete the process: In the soil and biomat, aerobic (oxygen–loving) bacteria, fungi, and other microbes continue to break down the remaining organic compounds and pathogens in the effluent. This is a more efficient and thorough process than the anaerobic digestion in the tank.

3. The soil acts as a natural filter, removing remaining contaminants and pathogens. 

4. Re–enters the environment: The treated wastewater then filters into the groundwater, where it can eventually reach streams, lakes, and drinking water sources. 

Source:

How Septic Systems Work | US EPA

Septic system maintenance is not complicated, and it does not need to be expensive. According to the EPA, upkeep boils down to four (4) key elements:

1. Inspect and pump frequently: To prevent buildup, sludge and floating scum need to be removed through periodic pumping of the septic tank. Regular inspections and pumping are the best and cheapest way to keep your septic system in good working order. The average household septic system should be inspected at least every three (3) years by a septic service professional. Household septic tanks are typically pumped every three (3) to five (5) years. In the service report, the pumper should note any repairs completed and whether the tank is in good condition. If the pumper recommends additional repairs he or she cannot perform, hire someone to make the repairs as soon as possible.

See also, How do you know when it is time to pump your septic system?

2. Use Water Efficiently: The more water a household conserves, the less water enters the septic system. Efficient water use can improve the operation of the septic system and reduce the risk of failure, benefiting your household as well as all your community. According to the EPA, toilet use accounts for 25 to 30 percent of household water use! That is why it is important to always check to make sure your toilet's reservoir is not leaking into the bowl. (See the section below, How can you measure clean water leakage into your septic system?) And in case you find a leak, fix it as soon as possible. The older the toilet is, the more water it uses to empty the bowl. Most older homes have toilets with 3.5- to 5–gallon reservoirs, while newer high–efficiency toilets use 1.6 gallons of water or less per flush. 

See also, How can you measure clean water leakage into your septic system? 

3. Watch your drains: What goes down the drain can have a major impact on how well your septic system works. That is why you should be cautious with what you are flushing down the toilet. Dental floss, feminine hygiene products, condoms, diapers, cotton swabs, cigarette butts, coffee grounds, cat litter, paper towels, and other kitchen and bathroom items can clog and potentially damage septic system components if they become trapped. An easy rule of thumb is not to flush anything besides human waste and toilet paper in your toilets. 

Avoid pouring toxins down your drain; these can kill the living organisms that digest and treat household waste in your septic system and can contaminate surface water and groundwater. Use toilet bowl cleaners that are labeled as safe for septic systems.

4. Wash your clothes wisely: Another thing that can have a great impact on your septic system is how you load your washing machine. Small loads of laundry on your washing machine’s large load cycle wastes water and energy. You can avoid that by selecting the proper load size. If you cannot select the load size, run only full loads of laundry. 

Also, doing all household laundry in one day can be harmful to your septic system, as it does not allow your septic tank adequate time to treat wastes, or can flood your drainfield without allowing sufficient recovery time. A good idea is to spread the use of your washing machine throughout the week.

5. Care for your drainfield: Your drainfield is an important part of your septic system that removes contaminants from the liquids emerging from your septic tank. Here are a few things you should do to maintain it: 

• Parking: Do not park or drive on your drainfield. Doing so can compact the soil in your drainfield or damage the pipes, tank, or other septic system components.

• Planting: Plant trees away from your drainfield to keep roots from growing into your septic system. Tree roots might clog and damage the drainfield. It is sometimes surprising how far roots can grow away from the tree.

• Avoid adding excess water to the drainfield: Keep roof drains, basement sump pump drains, and other rainwater or surface water drainage systems away from the drainfield. Flooding the drainfield with excessive water slows down or stops treatment processes and can cause plumbing fixtures to back up. In case of a flooded drainfield, avoid adding any more water to the system by not flushing toilets or allowing liquids down drains.

Sources:

• US EPA, A Kentucky Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

US EPA, How to care for your septic system. In Care and Maintenance, Septic Systems.

According to the EPA, average indoor water use in the typical single–family home is almost seventy (70) gallons per person, per day. However, leaky toilets can waste as much as 200 gallons each day! A method that EPA recommends for checking for leaks of your toilet’s reservoir into the bowl is adding five (5) drops of liquid food coloring to the reservoir before going to bed. If the dye is in the bowl the next morning, the reservoir is leaking and repairs are needed.

Another method to see how much is leaking from a toilet line, dripping from your faucet, or other leak adds to your water usage: 

• Place a cup under the drip for ten (10) minutes. 

• Multiply the amount of water in the cup by 144 (the number of minutes in 24 hours, divided by 10). This number is the total amount of clean water leakage per day that runs into your septic system caused by this drip.

For example, if your cup fills up 2 tablespoons within 10 minutes, then the total amount of clean water traveling to your septic system from that little leak is 2 T x 144 minutes = 288 T. With 256 Tablespoons per gallon, that makes over a gallon lost each day! 

Source:

US EPA, “Your Septic System is your responsibility.” In A Homeowner’s Guide to Septic Systems.

Unfortunately, there are not many options for assistance in building or maintaining a private septic system. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency has a few ideas on their website, under Funding for Septic Systems. These mostly involve loans from the United States Department of Agriculture’s Rural Development agency, such as:

Single Family Housing Direct Home Loans in Kentucky

Single–Family Housing Repair Loans and Grants Program

Rural Decentralized Water Systems Grant Program

The EPA also lists this source, but the website seems currently unavailable:

Kentucky PRIDE Homeowner Septic System Grant Program provides support to low–income homeowners to replace straight pipes, outhouses, or failing septic systems with sanitary wastewater treatment systems.